Indian Textiles & the West: Why the Dior Mumbai Show & NMACC Needs a Critical Eye

Is it praise long overdue or a nod to culture for new audience approvals?

(Left) Maria Grazia Chiuri and Karishma Swali in front of Gateway of India. (Right) Embroidery in process by an artisan at the Chanakya School of Craft for the Dior Fall 2023 Collection. Image source: 1, 2

The most-awaited Dior Fall 2023 was held in the lands where rent is the sarcastic joke in conversation instead of the weather. Mumbai being the true Gateway of India hosted the contemporary looks by the team of Chiuri and Chanakya School of Craft. As a celebratory ode towards the artisans of India and the history of handicrafts, the collection focuses on the intermingling of the two cultures in a win-win situation.

However, can luxury brands collaborating with individuals who practice slow fashion truly be an equal opportunity for growth? This year’s Dior collection has opened multiple viewpoints to find yours.

Notes on the Collection

The collection in itself was a simple one, with straight kurta silhouettes decorated with Indian embroidery. A foolproof approach to contemporization, one might critically mention. It wasn’t devoid of direct representations of Western fabrics though, with rethought puffer jackets and structured coats paired with lousy skirts that take cues from lungi drapes and the ever-present chappals (slippers).