Striking Cords: Vaishali S. and her Haute Couture Debut
Shadangule shows gratitude for the subtle process of respiration, and how it makes us one with nature.
Forging an idea of gratitude towards nature and the lack of living during pandemic, Shadangule has managed to take our breath away with her debut at the Paris Haute Couture with her Fall-Winter 2021 Collection, Breath.
Being the first woman from India and second to Rahul Mishra to grace the runway of Paris Haute Couture in 2021, Vaishali has come a long way, starting with her humble beginnings in Vidisha, Madhya Pradesh.
With her artistry, Shadangule had always delved into the depths of nature and brought it into tangible work through her collaborations with artisans all over India.
Working with over 1300 families with a background in handicraft and weaving, she aims at bringing the limelight towards the traditional weaves of India. Each collection often puts great focus on one weave at a time, informing the onlookers about its beauty and the no-nonsense effort required to bring it to life.
At 18, she decided to leave her hometown in the pursuit of her calling. With ₹500 in her wallet, she stepped into Bhopal, wanting to make a living by creating garments which reflected her ideals, and the likes of the nation.
She started creating her designs under a boutique launched in Malad on a ₹50k ($670) loan. Graduating later on from Pearl Academy, Delhi and successfully completing her masters from Milan, her initial shows were hosted in India and New York.
Combining the traditional age-old practices of weaving with looms and her modern ideology of something as mundane as breathing results in a collection meant for multifarious perceptions.
About श्वास/Breath
‘This collection is a statement and celebration of our existence through the simple act of taking a Breath.’ mentions the description on the official website.
With the pandemic’s virus targeting our respiratory system, Shadangule connected the dots of the simple involuntary act with nature, stating “This was the period where everyone was struggling for breath.” in an interview with Indiafile.
Strutting alongside the Couture collections of profound labels like Dior, Azzaro Couture, Chanel and many more, Vaishali S. had confidence in the age-old textiles of Indian heritage.
Known for her intricate work of creating fine cords with threads combined, the designer has worked with indigenous fabrics ranging from Chanderi previously to Merino in her Haute Couture Collection. With traditional weaves added to a western silhouette, the collection turns out to be one clashing and complimentary of the two domains together.
The collection premiered live from Lycee Victor Duruy (High School in Paris) on 8 July ’21, the opening scene captivating the audience with a violinist setting the scene for the anticipated graceful walks. Out of the 30 pieces showcased, the initial ones were plain white, gradually transcending to an array of colors, yet never two seen in one ensemble.
“Our ‘karigars’ don’t have access to trend forecasting tools like WGSN or information regarding Pantone Color of the Year, but they still come up with the most distinctive colors and motifs. The best inspiration will always come from nature and from within ourselves; one just needs to take a moment to connect with the two,” mentions Shadangule in an interview with Verve.
Shadangule is known for her commitment to incorporating sustainable fabric, keeping the heritage intact. Her collections have the uniformity of waved cords, which has become a signature trademark of hers with time.
The cords do not shy away from showing the backbone of the design, instead, the mechanical work with the flow of the fabric is combined to show the garment, inside-out.
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A rather short summary of the collection, but I hope I got the word out (even if it is on a miniscule level). If I get the chance to interview her (I have sent an email), I’d definitely would want to know more about the nitty-gritty details of the collection.
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