The only Ensembles which mattered at the Met Gala 2021
It barely passed as an act of praising the good America has in terms of culture.
Who would have foreshadowed the upcoming outrage Met Gala 2021 had to offer, right? With the theme not taken into consideration, or boastfully making it a fair pass, many outfits turned out rather flat for millions of onlookers.
The disappointment spread like wildfire amongst everyone turning into a critic, and out Instagram feeds were more memes than attire appreciations. Thus, to balance the negative opinions, it is best to focus on the attire which did make the cut, even if quite subtly.
The Nuances of the Theme
Many were quick to point out how the theme in itself was at fault. However, I would steer away from that thought. No matter what the theme may be, the same can be and should be conceptualized in something as big as the Met.
A lexicon of fashion doesn’t necessarily mean showing just the good things about America, it can be used to challenge the existent problems too, which some outfits did, but far many ignored.
American history isn’t devoid of its lime-lights, victories and learnings which could have been utilized fairly to provoke viewers into thinking for a better, inclusive future for all in the American Dream.
That said, the second half of the event without doubt would be an extravagant one to behold, considering the backlash netizens gave to the first of the two part series on praising upcoming American fashion designers.
A paper titled Democratizing Fashion explains the phenomenon aptly, despite the study being related to the thin line between journalism and blogging.
“Although it may have been possible historically to identify a popular figure who personified beauty (e.g., Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe), we are now confronted with multiple ideals of beauty reflecting the proliferation of lifestyles, cultures, and ethnic groups that comprise American culture.”
The statement could have been the head start for the event’s theme to be taken correctly.
Controversial Fits and Provocateurs
From the talks of taxing the rich to referential cuts termed as uninviting and bland, many stars were ‘called out’ for the controversial statements (or none at all) they made.
ERL — A$ap Rocky
Beyond all the memes by netizens, ERL’s quilt was one of the few which had significant American History weaved into what A$ap Rocky showed up with at the Met Gala. Quilts in American history had a moment of being family souvenirs and were often passed down within generations.
For the Gala piece, the designer Eli Russell Linnetz used scrap fabric and old remnants of clothes. The whole practice was known as ‘Memory Quilting’, which was renewed by ERL. Often the practice created quilts which had the fabric zeitgeist of the era, and thus someone can point to the year the quilt belongs to if they’re familiar with fabrics and textiles.
Balenciaga — Kim Kardashian
This has been the elephant in the room for quite a while and thus, deserves to be sorted out pronto. Kim Kardashian’s custom Balenciaga outfit revealed nothing, as many sources mention. The ensemble consisted of a figure-flattering t-shirt dress with two extended trails and what looked like long boots. The long ponytail was by far, the only accessory not opaque.
The explanation justifies the outfit as a promotion of Donda, the latest album of Kanye West. The whole divorce-story between the two is unrelated for the Met, and shouldn’t be taken into consideration if she genuinely wants to promote the release.
However, promotion of a music album at The Met seems too shallow of a reason to donned an attire and called it a night. Sure one can think too much into it and define it as an act of showing how her assets became a benchmark for the world to aspire to, but it is far from this universe that anyone would downplay their success just to prove a remorseful reality.
Many also pointed out the similarity of the garment with Burqa, a traditional piece worn by Muslim women by choice. The double standards were evident on how Muslim women are ridiculed for their choice of ‘modest’ clothing, deeming them oppressed, while the same attire is celebrated when worn by a conventional celebrity. “The hypocrisy is glaring — so in that sense, perhaps it was very American indeed.” mentions Hafsa Lodi on Independent.
Zac Posen — Debbie Harry
An American fashion designer known for his gown designs did not falter with his deliveries at the Met, and undoubtedly made it into the list of designers who understood the ‘assignment’. Posen chose an ensemble reminiscent of the American flag for American singer Debbie Harry.
The jacket, created with repurposed denim fits the blue with the red and while ruched strips beneath, completing the flag colors. The strips are gathered around a wide caged crinoline made of metal, which is reminiscent of the crinolines used back in the 1860s.
Posen did not reference anything rooted in American history except for the cage, yet the symbolism with the craftsmanship is evident, quoting the rich history of Denim and the tattered condition of the strips, much like the duality of American living.
Dundas — Ciara
The green floor-length dress with a small trail and cutouts was carried by Ciara. This was one of the sights at the Met which completed the theme from head to toe. Dundas’ afresh mindset kept the shimmery green dress in accordance with the creations of Geoffrey Beene.
Beene as an American fashion designer was known for his loose-fitting Jersey Dresses for women, back in the 1960s. Combining pop art with something conventionally masculine, and promoting it for women in the 60s was quite a goal he accomplished.
Dundas gives a modern take on the original jersey dresses, giving it a figure hugging silhouette, with quarterback shoulder design to match the shoulders of football players. Number 3 at the torso holds meaning for Ciara as her husband, Russell Wilson (Seattle Seahawks) carries it as his jersey number.
It is a feat at this point to mention something as American as football, and the concept is taken to its epitome with a sequined clutched designed as a football and a super-bowl-shaped ring.
Dan Levy — Loewe
Loewe’s creation was amongst the rare ones with multiple referential points. It can be hard to begin explaining the ensemble, but the overall inspiration dates back to the gay artist David Wojnarowicz, who also happened to be an AIDS activist.
The graphic of two men kissing was taken from one of the artists’ work titled F*ck You F*ggot F*cker. The image was in response to a cartoon mocking homosexuals. The image thus shifted the dialogue from hating the preference to celebrating its growing acceptance.
The map details in the print is reminiscent of David’s time as well, when after WW II the maps (made out of silk for easy folding) were repurposed into creating dresses, not letting the luxury fabric go to waste. Not to mention the shoes had crepe roses in front to denote the national flower of America.
Hollywood References
America’s forefront is incomplete without mentioning Hollywood amongst the hills, and the same was taken up by many designers for the Met red carpet. Again, many missed the mark in creating an impactful nostalgia for cinema enthusiasts.
Prabal Gurung — Gemma Chan
Prabal Gurung is an eponymous label run by the said Singapore-born Nepalese fashion designer. Raised in Kathmandu and NYC, his ideas stem from the conjunction of diverse cultures.
For the Met, his statements were no less subtle. Honoring Anna May Wong, the first Asian-American (Chinese descent) Hollywood star back in the 1920s. The Dragon Dress worn by the actress was a creation of costume designer Travis Banton, which was given a twist by Gurung turning it into a cocktail length with pastel green pseudo-cape extension.
An actress and producer herself, the muse Gemma Chan takes pride in donning the iconic hairstyle of Wong, stating that “Despite facing prejudice and stereotyping she fought back against the discrimination she faced in Hollywood.”
Givenchy — Kendall Jenner
Almost every Met we are given a different take on the ‘naked’ dress. Similar to its previous versions, the one worn by Kendall Jenner was quite reminiscent of the one worn by Kim Kardashian.
However, the symbolism hit differently, with Kendall as the muse for Givenchy, she considers the gown as an ode to Audrey Hepburn and her close friendship with Hubert de Givenchy. Not questionable at heart, yet the concept falls off completely knowing that the scene referred to was from My Fair Lady in which the dress was not even designed by Givenchy (it was by Cecile Beaten).
Another area where the dress missed the mark was in referencing Hepburn itself, who was British. She was a renowned and celebrated Hollywood actress, yet her ethnicity, even in the movie conceptualized, was not American.
The dress could have been a perfect pass in symbolism if American characters played by the actor were displayed prominently.
Notable Elements and Accessories
Out of the approximately three hundred guests invited to the Met, more than half of the celebrities wore a recent piece from the designer’s Fall-Winter or Spring-Summer line. Granted the leverage was for the American designers to shine, yet the backlash they got was tenfold.
Nonetheless, some pieces had elements referencing American history, victories and semiotics. Not as flashy as camp, yet a few subtle handbags or headpieces make the cut to call it a representation of the West.
Iris Van Herpen — Grimes
The highlight of Grimes’ ensemble was not Iris Van Herpen’s creation, rather the medieval presence of the sword juxtaposed with the futuristic imagination of the Dutch designer. Known for her experimental takes on music, Grimes became the perfect muse. Herpen names it the ‘Bene Gesserit’ look, mentioning the details of the twenty six meters of draped silk.
The sword was created from a melted AR-15 semi-automatic assault rifle by lowkey artsy brand MSCHF. That level of lethal presence was also accompanied with a book, an evident nod to the Liberty Lady. The sword will become a part of the Met Museum as a memoir.
Brother Vellies — Alexandria Ocasio Cortez
The mermaid dress blatantly stating ‘Tax the Rich’ seemed controversial (again). Being a politician, the marker on taxes was in itself a bold move by Vellies, yet since Cortez was all covered in a conference prior to the event addressing the Taliban situation.
While there were many more which can be included in the list in terms of American symbolism as a statement in fashion history (Nikki Tutorials and Amanda Gorman to name a few good ones), it is often comprehensive enough to study each garment.
The fact that the highlights of the Met can be summarized in a short critique makes it a mark for increasing its potential in the coming one in May with the theme of ‘In America: An Anthology of Fashion’.
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