The Hype with Sneakers and why the Heat is Fizzling Out
“You can wear it if you want.” my friend said when he saw me trying on his New Balance 550 in a white-green colorway. His words did not come to me as a surprise since I did not know the value of these sneakers I wear to the office weekly as my take on ‘Casual Fridays’.
My introduction to the sneaker community began when I came across a rather uncanny reel of the protagonist wearing his sneakers with a transparent foil covering in the rain, which got me thinking, what is the hype all about, and how do I ‘cop’ one pair for myself?
Sneakerheads: From Store Lines to Online Clicks
One of the vintage subcultures (considering the day and age of internet subcultures), Sneakerheads have been around for almost five decades. Starting from the Air Jordan (eponymous tag by basketball player Michael Jordan), famous for its colorway combinations of classic black, red, blue and white, the Sneaker community has seen a shift in its consumer base, including the way they shop, collect, and define what is ‘the hype’.
Intermingled easily with the recent subculture of Hypebeasts, Sneakerheads are crazy fanatics for sneakers of all kinds, not to mention the frenzy that appears when a new drop is released. Similar to collecting coins or stamps as kids, Sneakerheads take pride in collecting a variety of Air Jordans, Nike Dunks, or the recent New Balance. “A sneakerhead is someone who has learned roman numerals by collecting Jordans” mentions Elliott Curtis (cofounder, Sneakerology).
What is the Hype for?
I put on my detective coat to understand what the frick is in those reverse swoosh Nikes! If anything, shouldn’t it mean the opposite of ‘Just Do it’? I asked a few sneakerheads in my circle about the state of the subculture, and how they contribute to it while being overseas from these famous pairs’ origins.
The conclusion? ‘We don’t fancy the first copy as we can figure it out from a mile away, yet that is all we usually have’ was a common sentiment.
The difference between the west and the east in terms of hyped sneakers is completely different. First copies are both revered and looked down upon, not to mention that the heart lies in the totem-like symbolism of style within these kicks.
Whether it is in America or India, by far sneakers are largely considered ‘collectibles’ to invest in. Over time, the price of a particular sneaker design can increase, as seen in many limited edition releases. It is the kick one gets when collecting stamps or rare coins.
The Depleting Market: Is the Hype Simmering Down?
Even though Business of Fashion objectively mentioned the decline of sneaker demands in 2022 being switched to flats and loafers, it’s quite some time before we won’t see anyone wearing them. Not to mention, it is a big stretch to say that the market for sneakers is depleting, rather it is just declining from its ‘high-growth phase’ in the first world countries.
On the other side, the sneaker market has gained momentum in the east, with the hype of ‘first-hand’ copy being all the rage, thanks to the pieces being more affordable look-alikes. The hype of money-invested footwear has also spawned multiple satiric narrations over social media, with the youth covering their air jordans in plastic bags to go out. The game is in the name, the reversed swoosh, the italic N, and the stripes say it all.
Marketing Sneakers in the AI Age
If the sneaker industry isn’t clearly declining, then where is it headed within the behemoth that is AI? The current bombardment of Chat GPT and Midjourney has taken teh netizen world by a storm, with digital artists protesting against the use of AI to copywriters (and me) fearing their career security in the near future. How does AI translate into fashion propaganda, and can it be utilised impeccably in guerilla marketing strategies?
MSCHF’s BRB (Big Red Boots)
The recent boom of AI has taken the netizen world by storm. With digital creators’ and writers’ jobs being put in jeopardy, the now (in)famous ChatGPT and MidJourney have shaken the headquarters of Google and Microsoft. The visual prodigy that is AI is also having a new, stronger hold in the fashion scene, with designers and even common folk taking inspiration from it to create tech-savvy garments and, you guessed it, sneakers.
MSCHF captured the essence of the AI boom quite impeccably. Launching their ‘Big Red Boot’ embodying the Astro Boy, it is quite literally, a cartoon brought to life in 3D. The marketing took a standard route of multiple celebrities and influencers receiving the boot before its launch. It is a rather expected product by MSCHF since they are known for bizarre launches and creating shock factors. However, the Big Red Boot does seem to be utilitarian enough to beat Air Jordans among the trendy clique.
“It’s not a satire, what’s interesting is that we’re at a moment in time where it doesn’t have to be.” the founders said to the New York Times.
A brilliantly twisted way to make you buy the weirdest of footwear, the Big Red Boots is a viral success story celebrating the AI age, and subsequently encouraging to bring the 2D icons into the 3D functional world.
The Nike X Tiffany Fail
BOF calls the collaboration as a ‘major fail’. Honestly, the AI-generated versions of Nike X Tiffany show prompted by sneaker enthusiasts felt much more boisterous in all the good ways, even though the renditions came prior to the original collab’s release. The original: Black Air Jordan’s with a turquoise swoosh painted over it, didn’t pass the heat cut. Even though seamless marketing and digital posters gave the minimal appeal of Tiffany and the activewear look of Nike, the actual product failed to create a buzz. Would it be a lack of creativity? Or plain ignorance over assumptions that stayed glued to the value of the brand?
While the above two marketing cases speak for themselves, it is imperative to understand how even big brands could blunder. The idea of being viral today has changed drastically: from showcasing something awesome to simply being deliberately foolish. Both cause a desirable reaction, proving how there is no such thing as negative press.
For sneaker brands, the market is only cyclic, just like any other trend, and while it may be fizzling out from being the highlight, it will gain fame soon enough.
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It has been a while since I gave my opinion. What do you think about the sneaker market? Is it a new wave of classic choice, or a seasonal affair?
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